Laminate vs. Vinyl - What’s the Big Difference? In a nutshell, laminate flooring is a multi-layer synthetic floor with a core made of wood fibers, whereas vinyl flooring is completely synthetic plastic (PVC) through and through. Both types are popular in Toronto homes for their affordability and attractive look of wood or tile. However, there are key differences in water resistance, durability, feel, and installation that Toronto homeowners should know before choosing one over the other. Below we break down each aspect of laminate vs. vinyl flooring to help you decide which is best for your needs.
Laminate flooring is constructed of layered materials fused together. Its core is typically high-density fiberboard (HDF) made from compressed wood fibers, bonded with resins, with a photographic image layer on top, all sealed under a clear protective wear layer. In other words, laminate is a wood-based product at its core (hence the name laminate wood flooring). By contrast, vinyl flooring (especially luxury vinyl plank or tile, known as LVP/LVT) is made entirely of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and other synthetic layers. Vinyl planks usually have a base layer, a printed design layer, and a thick PVC core, topped with a transparent wear layer for protection. There is no wood content in standard vinyl flooring - it’s all plastic, which gives vinyl some unique properties discussed below.
One immediate effect of this composition difference is thickness and rigidity. Laminate planks are generally thicker (typically 6 to 12 mm thick) due to the fiberboard core. Vinyl planks and tiles are usually thinner (around 1.5 to 5 mm for most LVP) and more flexible. Laminate’s thicker, wood-based core makes it feel more substantial, but also means laminate should not get soaked with water (wood fiber can swell). Vinyl’s plastic construction makes it completely waterproof (more on that below). Both types often come as floating floor systems with interlocking edges. Laminate is almost always installed as a floating floor (pieces click together over an underlayment). Vinyl can either float (click-lock planks) or be glued down, and some vinyl comes in peel-and-stick tiles or sheet format for permanent adhesion.
Underlayment: Laminate flooring requires underlayment - a foam or felt layer - for installation. The underlay provides cushioning, noise reduction, and a moisture barrier under the laminate. Many newer laminate products include a built-in pad attached to each plank. Vinyl plank flooring may also have an attached underpad, but in many cases vinyl can be installed directly on the subfloor (especially if it’s a glue-down type) or over an underlayment for added softness. Always follow manufacturer guidelines on underlayment use.
At first glance, high-quality laminate and vinyl floors can look very similar. Both are designed to mimic natural materials like hardwood or stone. Laminate flooring is known for its realistic wood look - the printed design layer can be very convincing, and the thicker construction allows for deep embossed textures that match the grain of wood or the contours of stone. Laminate can even mimic hand-scraped or distressed wood surfaces quite realistically. Vinyl flooring has improved greatly in looks as well - luxury vinyl planks (LVP) often have textured surfaces and high-definition prints that imitate wood grain or ceramic and stone patterns. Vinyl is also available in tile format (LVT) that can resemble stone or ceramic tiles, and in sheet vinyl which often has seamless patterns.
One difference in offerings is that laminate typically comes only in plank form (for wood-look designs), whereas vinyl comes in planks, tiles, or sheets, giving a bit more design flexibility. If you want a stone or ceramic tile look with actual grout lines, vinyl tile can achieve that; laminate generally doesn’t have groutable options. Color and style variety is vast for both: you can find a wide range of wood species simulations (oak, maple, walnut, etc.) in both laminate and vinyl products, as well as different stains and colors. Vinyl might have an edge if you’re looking for unique patterns (some vinyl tiles even mimic encaustic cement tiles or offer decorative patterns). Laminate often has a slight edge in wood realism, as its thicker melamine wear layer can be deeply embossed to match wood texture more realistically. That said, many modern vinyl planks look nearly as authentic as laminate to the casual eye.
In terms of finish, laminate floors are generally sold in matte or semi-matte finishes that resemble a urethane wood finish. Vinyl planks can have a similar matte finish; older vinyl or cheap vinyl might have a glossier plastic look, but premium LVP has subdued luster for a natural appearance. Both laminate and vinyl maintain their appearance without the need for polishing or refinishing - what you see is what you get for the life of the floor (neither can be sanded and refinished like solid hardwood).
Style Tip: If you’re aiming for a seamless, continuous look (e.g., one floor type throughout a condo or open area), both laminate and vinyl can deliver. Just note that laminate shouldn’t be used in wet areas, so you might mix flooring types - for example, use vinyl in a bathroom and laminate in bedrooms, but ensure the color/print coordinates. Also, in Toronto’s many condos and modern homes, wide-plank designs are popular - both laminate and vinyl lines offer wide plank options. Vinyl also offers extra-long plank sizes in some collections, which can reduce the number of seams.
One of the biggest differences between laminate and vinyl flooring is how they handle water and moisture. Vinyl flooring is essentially 100% waterproof - since it’s made of PVC plastic, it does not absorb water at all. This means you can use vinyl floors in moisture-prone areas like bathrooms, kitchens, mudrooms, basements, and laundry rooms without worry. Spills, pet accidents, or wet boots from a Toronto snowstorm are no big deal on vinyl - you can wipe up the water and the floor will be fine. Sheet vinyl in particular, with its seamless installation, provides an impervious surface ideal for bathrooms. Vinyl planks and tiles have seams, but the pieces are impervious and many have tight locks or are glued such that water won’t easily penetrate to the subfloor.
Laminate flooring, on the other hand, is not naturally waterproof. Traditional laminate has a wood fiber core that will swell and warp if water soaks into it. Even moisture from concrete subfloors can potentially cause issues if not properly sealed. Standard laminate is not recommended for bathrooms or damp basements for this reason. Even a spill left standing too long on a laminate floor could seep into the joints and cause the planks to puff up or the edges to delaminate (peel). If you install laminate in a kitchen or entryway, you have to be vigilant about cleaning up spills promptly and using mats near sinks or doors. In a basement, if there’s any chance of minor flooding or chronic humidity, laminate would be a risky choice without special precautions.
Waterproof Laminate: In recent years, manufacturers have introduced water-resistant or “waterproof” laminate flooring that can tolerate moisture better. These products use features like waxed edges, waterproof coatings, and sometimes a PVC core while still having a laminate top, to resist swelling. If you choose a waterproof-rated laminate, it can even be installed in kitchens and half-baths, and some brands claim use in full bathrooms as well. However, even “waterproof” laminates typically have time limits (e.g., water should be wiped within 24 or 48 hours) and they rely on tight installation to keep water out of seams. Vinyl’s waterproof nature is more absolute - it’s the safer bet for constant moisture areas like a bathroom that regularly gets wet or a basement that might have a slight dampness.
For Toronto’s climate, consider that basements here can be humid or subject to leaks (e.g., during spring thaws or heavy rains). Vinyl flooring is generally a better choice below grade (basements) for this reason, as it won’t be ruined by moisture. Laminate can be used in basements only if you are confident the space is very dry and you install a proper vapor barrier and perhaps use a water-resistant laminate product. In kitchens, vinyl has an edge since refrigerators can leak or dishwashers overflow - an accident that would merely wet a vinyl floor could severely damage a laminate floor.
In summary: If water exposure is likely or you need a floor for a full bathroom, laundry room, or damp basement - vinyl is the clear winner. For dry, living spaces like bedrooms, living rooms, or dining areas, laminate works well and you don’t gain much by using vinyl there unless you specifically want its other qualities.
Both laminate and vinyl are considered durable flooring options, but their strengths are slightly different. Laminate flooring is quite hard and resistant to scratching and wear on its top surface, thanks to a tough aluminum oxide wear layer on most products. This makes quality laminate highly scratch-resistant - daily foot traffic, pets running around, or kids playing with toys usually won’t scratch through the laminate’s wear layer. However, laminate’s core can be susceptible to impact damage; for example, a heavy object dropped on a laminate floor might dent or chip the surface. Also, if the top layer is scratched or chipped, you cannot refinish or easily repair it (though wax repair kits can fill minor scratches on laminate).
Vinyl flooring’s durability comes from its resilience - the wear layer on vinyl (often a polyurethane) resists scuffs and scratches, and the product has a bit of give, so it’s less likely to crack on impact. Good LVP has multiple wear layers that make it very resilient to scratches and scuffing. Small scratches that might show white on a laminate (due to the light-colored core) may be less obvious on vinyl, which is the same material throughout and often has color all the way through or a protective coating. That said, vinyl is a bit softer than laminate, so very sharp or heavy objects can gouge or dent vinyl more readily than they would a hard laminate surface. For example, heavy furniture can leave dents in vinyl flooring over time, especially if it’s a thinner vinyl or lacks dense backing. Laminate, being stiffer, won’t dent, but its surface can scratch or its edges can crack/chip if something very heavy or sharp hits it.
When it comes to lifespan, a well-maintained laminate floor can last around 15 to 25 years before needing replacement. Higher quality laminates with thicker wear layers tend to be on the upper end of that range. Laminate in low-traffic areas might even last longer. The caveat is that water damage can drastically cut that lifespan - one bad flood or leak and a laminate floor might be done. Vinyl flooring is often quoted as lasting 10 to 20 years. Again, quality matters: a thicker vinyl plank with a robust wear layer (e.g., 20 mil or more) can easily last 20 years in a residential setting. Thinner or cheaper vinyl might only last a decade or so before it’s worn or the pattern fades. One reason some vinyl floors get replaced is surface scratching or dulling over time, or simply style updates, rather than the material falling apart. Neither laminate nor vinyl will ever require refinishing (unlike hardwood which can be sanded to renew it); when they reach end-of-life, you replace them.
Resistance to Stains and Fading: Both laminate and vinyl are generally stain-resistant. Laminate’s top layer is non-porous and will resist most household stains (spilled wine, etc.) as long as it’s cleaned in a reasonable time. Vinyl’s wear layer also resists staining from most substances. Direct sunlight can cause some fading to both over years. Laminate with its printed paper layer can fade if exposed to intense UV light daily; vinyl can also discolor (and certain rubber-backed rugs can chemically stain vinyl - a known issue). Using curtains or UV window films in sun-drenched rooms can help prevent fading for either floor type.
Temperature and expansion: Laminate’s wood content means it will expand and contract with temperature and humidity changes. Proper installation (with expansion gaps at walls) accommodates this. Extreme swings (like an unheated cottage in winter) can potentially cause laminate boards to warp or gaps to open - something to consider in some Toronto area seasonal homes. Vinyl is more dimensionally stable with climate changes and does not warp with normal temperature fluctuations - however, very high heat (above what you’d normally get in a home) could potentially soften vinyl. Both laminate and vinyl can be used over radiant floor heating systems safely, as long as the floor’s temperature is kept within the manufacturer’s guidelines (often below ~85°F/30°C). In fact, because vinyl is thinner, it may transfer heat from an underfloor heating system slightly faster, but both perform well and won’t be damaged by radiant heat if installed correctly.
Bottom line on durability: For scratch resistance, high-quality laminate and vinyl are both strong - some experts note laminate’s hard topcoat might resist minor scratching even better, while vinyl’s multiple layers also protect it. Both are good for pets and busy households, though if you have large dogs, you might lean toward laminate for scratch hardness or vinyl for water-proof cleanup (depending on what you value more). For impact and heavy weight, laminate won’t dent but could chip, vinyl will dent before it chips. With normal use, expect a long service life from either; just avoid lots of water on laminate and use furniture pads on vinyl to prevent dents.
Both laminate and vinyl flooring are marketed as DIY-friendly floors, especially in their click-lock floating plank forms. Laminate flooring comes in planks that click together on the edges. You lay it as a floating floor over an underlayment, without gluing or nailing it down. The planks are generally cut with a saw (a power miter saw or even a handsaw or specialty laminate cutter) because the planks are rigid and fairly thick. Laminate installation requires you to leave an expansion gap at walls (usually covered by baseboard or quarter-round trim) because of the wood-based expansion/contraction.
Vinyl plank flooring installs similarly when it’s the click-lock type - the planks or tiles have interlocking edges and “float” over the subfloor. Many vinyl plank products can be cut simply with a utility knife by scoring and snapping, since the material is softer than laminate. This makes vinyl potentially easier to cut for DIY installers (no saw required for straight cuts). Vinyl tile (LVT) can also be glued down using adhesive, which is a bit more advanced DIY project or usually done by professionals for a permanent bond. Peel-and-stick vinyl tiles are another DIY option; you just stick them to a prepared subfloor. Sheet vinyl typically is installed by pros, as it involves spreading adhesive and careful fitting.
When considering installation:
Underlayment and sound: As mentioned, laminate needs an underlayment pad. Vinyl planks sometimes have an attached pad, but if not, you might add one for sound or softness (ensure it’s approved by the vinyl manufacturer - too much cushion under vinyl can sometimes cause joint issues). In condo apartments in Toronto, building rules often require a certain IIC sound rating for flooring to reduce noise to neighbors below. Both laminate and vinyl can be installed to meet these sound insulation requirements by using appropriate underlayments. Laminate might need a premium acoustic underlay; vinyl may also need a thin sound-dampening underlay if allowed. Always check condo board requirements.
Overall, both floors are relatively easy and clean to install compared to tile or hardwood. There’s no nailing (so less damage to existing subfloor) and no grouting. After installation, you can walk on both immediately (except glued-down vinyl might need adhesive set time). If you’re an avid DIYer, you can likely handle either; if not, Canadian Flooring (CanFloor) can connect you with professional installers to ensure the job is done correctly.
How a floor feels when you walk on it is an important consideration, especially for living areas. Laminate flooring, due to its thicker wood-based core, often feels more rigid underfoot - somewhat closer to the feel of a hardwood floor. It is usually installed over a foam underlayment, which can give it a bit of spring or cushion and also some insulation from the cold subfloor. Laminate itself is not a heat conductor, so with a good underlay it tends to feel warmer to the touch than tile or even vinyl. If you step on a laminate floor in winter (with the home heated), it doesn’t feel shockingly cold, partly thanks to the air gap and foam underlayment beneath it and the wood content. Many people find laminate comfortable to stand on, and any slight “give” from the underlayment can reduce leg fatigue.
One downside to laminate is noise: it can be a bit noisy or hollow-sounding when walked on, especially with hard-soled shoes. You might hear a tap-click sound of footsteps. Good underlayment and proper installation (with expansion gaps and leveling) mitigate this, but it’s common to hear people walking on laminate, particularly in heels or hard shoes. In multi-story homes or condos, impact noise from laminate can transmit below if not insulated. This is why using a quality acoustic underlayment is important for laminate in apartments.
Vinyl flooring is softer and more pliant, so it tends to be quieter underfoot - you generally do not hear a clicking heel sound on vinyl. The material itself absorbs sound better. Also, vinyl is glued tight to the floor or lying flat, which reduces hollow sounds. Footstep noise is minimal on vinyl, making it great for second floors or condos where noise is a concern. However, vinyl can feel harder or colder on your feet, especially when installed directly over concrete. A thin vinyl plank on a slab can feel pretty chilly in January in Toronto if not supplemented by area rugs or floor heating. Vinyl’s surface is also a bit harder on the feet in the sense that it’s not usually as cushioned (unless it has a cushioned backing). There are vinyl products with foam or cork backing that improve softness. Also, if you add an underlayment under floating vinyl plank (as some do for sound or thermal insulation), it can approach the comfort of laminate.
Which is more comfortable? It can be subjective. Laminate floors, with a foam underlayment, often feel a little warmer and “softer” (slightly more give) than basic vinyl floors. But laminate’s surface is hard (it’s a tough resin overlay), so it’s not soft to the touch, it just might not feel as icy as tile. Vinyl floors have a slight cushion feel (especially if they’re thicker or have backing), and some folks find them more “forgiving” underfoot when standing for long periods. Also, if you drop a dish on vinyl, it might be slightly less likely to break than on a harder laminate surface - a minor consideration. In terms of sound, vinyl wins out - it’s generally quieter, both in-room and to any rooms below.
For households with kids who play on the floor or for use in gyms/playrooms, you might give a slight edge to vinyl - it’s a bit softer (and you could even install it over a thin rubber underlayment for more cushion). That said, both surfaces are hard flooring (not soft like carpet), so they are not as cushy as carpet or cork. You can always use area rugs to cozy up either one.
One big appeal of both laminate and vinyl is low maintenance. Neither requires waxing, polishing, or special treatments - they are easy to clean day to day. Routine cleaning for both floors involves sweeping or vacuuming up dust and grit, and damp mopping as needed.
For laminate flooring, the key is to avoid excessive water. Use a damp mop (well wrung out) or a microfiber mop with a laminate-friendly cleaner. Never flood a laminate floor with water or leave puddles standing, as water can seep into seams and damage the core. Many manufacturers recommend using a dedicated laminate floor cleaner or just a bit of vinegar and water solution sprayed lightly on the mop. No wet mopping and definitely no steam mops on laminate (steam can penetrate and cause swelling). Also, do not wax or polish laminate - it’s designed to stay at the sheen it comes with. In fact, adding wax can create a dull film or make it slippery. If you protect laminate from moisture and clean it gently, it will maintain its look without much effort. For spills, wipe them up promptly with a cloth. Sticky messes can be lightly damp-mopped.
Laminate is generally stain-resistant - the wear layer keeps most spills from penetrating or staining. However, things like ink or dyes could potentially stain if left on long; clean those quickly. Another tip: use felt pads under furniture and be careful when moving heavy pieces, as dragging furniture can scratch laminate or even cause boards to separate if caught. If minor scratches occur, as noted earlier, you can find laminate floor touch-up markers or crayons in matching colors to fill them in.
Vinyl flooring is even more carefree. You can safely damp-mop vinyl floors regularly - vinyl doesn’t mind water at all on its surface. In fact, wet-mopping is fine on vinyl (though it’s still wise not to leave large puddles indefinitely, to prevent water seeping to walls or subfloor). For cleaning, use a pH-neutral floor cleaner or simply a bit of dish soap in water. Avoid extremely harsh chemicals which could degrade the wear layer. No wax is needed for most modern vinyl (older vinyl floors sometimes needed waxing, but modern polyurethane finishes do not). Do not use abrasive scrubbers as they can dull the surface. Vinyl is pretty hard to stain; even things like wine or tomato sauce usually wipe off the protective wear layer. If something oily or colorful sits too long, it might leave a slight mark, but generally vinyl is highly stain-resistant. One caution: rubber can discolor vinyl (a chemical reaction). So avoid putting rubber-backed mats or rubber furniture feet directly on vinyl - use felt pads or non-staining rugs instead.
Pets and mess: Both laminate and vinyl are pet-friendly floors in terms of cleanup. Pet hair and dander sweep up easily. If Fido has an accident, vinyl holds up perfectly (just wipe it away, no harm done). Laminate will tolerate a small accident if cleaned quickly, but if urine, for instance, seeps into the seams and sits, it could swell the plank edges. So for older pets or puppy training, vinyl might give more peace of mind. For scratches from pet nails, both are pretty good. Large dogs might be able to scratch cheaper laminate or vinyl, but high-quality products of both types resist claw marks well. Keeping nails trimmed and using rugs in pet play areas helps.
Long-term care: Over many years, the main difference is that laminate might eventually get micro-scratches that dull the finish slightly, and vinyl might get surface wear in high-traffic paths (slight dulling or fine scratches). Neither can be refinished, so at that point (a decade or two down the road) you might choose to replace the floor if it looks worn. Fortunately, both are quite affordable to replace compared to hardwood refinishing costs. If a plank is damaged, floating floors allow you to replace that plank (though it can be tricky in the middle of a room). Often people might live with a small chip or scratch until a larger refresh is needed.
When budgeting for flooring, laminate and vinyl are similar price-wise, with each offering budget options and higher-end options. As of 2025, material costs for both laminate and LVP/LVT vinyl generally range from about $2 per square foot on the low end to $5 or $6+ per square foot on the high end for premium products. According to Lowe’s, for example, budget laminate can be found around $1 to $3 per sq ft, with name-brand laminates around $3 on average and up to $5 - $8 for top quality. Vinyl pricing is similar: you can find basic vinyl planks in the $1 - $2 range, and luxury vinyl with special features can cost $4 - $5 or more per sq ft. Sheet vinyl is usually one of the cheapest flooring options per square foot, but its installation cost could be higher since it often needs professional installation.
Keep in mind that laminate usually requires buying underlayment separately (if not attached) which might add around $0.25 - $0.50 per sq ft for a good underlay. Some vinyl planks have attached underlayment; if not, you might or might not use an underlay depending on the subfloor (some people add a thin underlay for sound/comfort, which is an extra cost). Installation labor (if hiring pros) tends to be comparable for both - typically in the range of $1.50 - $3 per sq ft in the Toronto area for floating floors. Glue-down vinyl might cost a bit more to install than floating, due to the extra steps.
In terms of overall project cost, they come out similar, so cost usually isn’t the deciding factor between laminate vs vinyl - it’s more about the application and look. One scenario: if you already have a very level, nice subfloor, vinyl might allow you to skip costs like underlay or extensive prep. If you have minor subfloor imperfections, you might lean to laminate which can hide them without needing floor leveling (saving prep cost).
Resale value: Neither laminate nor vinyl will add huge real estate value like genuine hardwood might, but having new, good-quality flooring of either type can be a selling point. According to home improvement experts, quality laminate and quality vinyl contribute similarly to home value - buyers generally accept both as modern, easy-care flooring. Laminate used to have a bit of an edge in perception because older vinyl was seen as cheap. However, with the rise of attractive luxury vinyl, many buyers (especially younger ones aware of vinyl plank benefits) are very happy to see vinyl plank floors in a home. Toronto’s condo market, for example, frequently uses vinyl plank in renovations because of its water-resistant practicality. As long as the floor looks good and isn’t a bargain-basement flimsy product, buyers won’t be turned off. One exception: very cheap vinyl (like old thin sheet vinyl or low-quality peel-and-stick) might drag down a home’s appeal slightly, just as a really worn-out laminate would. But if we compare mid/high-grade laminate vs. mid/high-grade LVP, their resale impact is about equal - they are considered durable, attractive flooring but not luxury upgrades. Neither will match the prestige of real hardwood or stone in buyers’ eyes, but they also won’t usually nix a sale. In fact, a well-done vinyl or laminate floor is often seen as a plus because the buyer doesn’t have to immediately replace it.
Other cost factors: If you plan to install yourself, factor in any tool rentals (saws, etc., more likely for laminate). For vinyl, you might need a few hand tools (knife, straightedge). Also consider waste - you’ll buy 5-10% extra flooring for cuts for both types. Maintenance cost is negligible for both (just basic cleaning supplies, no periodic refinishing). Over time, you may replace vinyl slightly sooner than laminate, but the difference in lifespan isn’t huge. Some people choose vinyl in rentals or basements because even if it only lasts 10 years, it was inexpensive and easy to swap out.
If sustainability and indoor air quality are on your mind, it’s worth noting that neither laminate nor vinyl is a particularly “green” flooring, though laminate has a slight edge by containing natural wood components. Laminate flooring is built on a wood byproduct core - many laminate products use some percentage of recycled wood fibers, and some are certified for sustainable forestry for their wood content. This gives laminate a bit of environmental credibility. It’s also free of PVC. However, laminate manufacturing involves resins and chemicals (like melamine formaldehyde in the core binding). In the mid-2010s, there were concerns about formaldehyde emissions from some laminate floors (notably a well-known scandal in 2015 with imported laminate). Today, reputable brands comply with strict low-emission standards - look for labels like FloorScore or GreenGuard which indicate the product meets indoor air quality thresholds. Laminate is not easily recyclable - once worn out, the boards typically end up in landfill (the mix of wood and resin isn’t readily separated). On the plus side, laminate does use less hardwood than solid wood floors (only a photo of wood, not actual timber), so it can be seen as a way to get a wood look with less harvesting of trees.
Vinyl flooring is made of plastic (PVC), derived from petroleum and chlorine. The production of PVC has environmental downsides, including greenhouse gas emissions and use of non-renewable resources. Vinyl is also not biodegradable and generally ends up in landfills at end of life, where it will persist for a very long time. Traditional vinyl could also emit volatile organic compounds (VOCs), especially right after installation - though most modern vinyl floors are low-VOC if they are FloorScore certified. Many manufacturers have improved the “green” profile of vinyl by offering phthalate-free products (phthalates were plasticizers of concern in older vinyl). Additionally, some vinyl flooring includes recycled PVC content and can potentially be recycled again in specialized facilities. A noteworthy point: when vinyl is burned (in a fire or incinerator), it can release toxic chemicals like dioxins. In fact, vinyl is considered less eco-friendly overall than laminate. There are movements to improve vinyl sustainability, but as of now, if eco-friendliness is a top priority, you might consider alternatives like cork, bamboo, or FSC-certified hardwood.
Certifications to look for: Whether you choose laminate or vinyl, opt for products that are FloorScore, GreenGuard, or UL certified for low emissions, which means they have been tested for indoor air quality. Also, check if the laminate is CARB Phase 2 compliant for formaldehyde (a requirement in California that many products adhere to). Most big brands in Canada will meet these standards.
In summary on environment: Laminate has a slight environmental edge due to using wood fibers rather than all plastic, but it’s not perfect because of resins and lack of recyclability. Vinyl is plastic and thus less eco-friendly, though improved formulations are reducing its impact. Neither is on par with natural materials like true linoleum, cork or sustainably sourced hardwood in eco terms. If you do replace these floors, consider finding recycling programs (some companies recycle vinyl flooring). Also, a positive note: because both laminate and vinyl floors are long-lasting, you won’t be replacing them frequently, which somewhat mitigates environmental impact versus, say, wall-to-wall carpet that might be replaced every 5-10 years.
When it comes down to deciding laminate vs. vinyl flooring for your project, the answer isn’t one-size-fits-all. Each flooring has its advantages, and the best choice depends on your specific needs and where you plan to install it. Let’s summarize the strengths of each:
Laminate Flooring - Best For:
Laminate Cons: The biggest drawback is sensitivity to water - you really can’t use standard laminate in wet locations like a full bathroom or damp basement. Also, if damage does occur (say a plank chips), you often have to live with it or replace the plank; you can’t refinish it. It’s also a floating floor, so there can be that slight hollow sound if not well insulated.
Vinyl Flooring - Best For:
Vinyl Cons: Vinyl is made of plastic, so it’s not as environmentally friendly when comparing to wood-based products. Also, while vinyl can look very realistic, extremely discerning eyes might still find laminate looks more like “wood” than some vinyl does (though it’s very close). Vinyl can dent under heavy objects and very cheap vinyl might tear (not an issue with quality LVP). Lastly, if you’re DIY’ing, handling large sheets of vinyl is tricky (but planks are easy).
To help with your decision, here’s a quick pros/cons recap:
Laminate Flooring - Pros:
Laminate Flooring - Cons:
Vinyl Flooring - Pros:
Vinyl Flooring - Cons:
It truly depends on your situation. In a condo or any upper level, you might prefer laminate in living areas for the upscale wood look, using vinyl in bathrooms. For a basement renovation, vinyl is usually best to ward off moisture issues. If you love DIY projects, you might choose vinyl planks for easier cutting. If you have a busy household and just want something bulletproof, vinyl’s waterproof durability is hard to beat. On the other hand, if you’re aiming for a specific hardwood aesthetic in a low-risk area, a quality laminate will give you that look and feel.
Finally, consider touching and seeing samples of both. Sometimes the decision becomes clear when you feel the texture and see the color in your space. At Canadian Flooring (CanFloor) in Toronto, we encourage customers to take home samples of both laminate and vinyl to compare. We carry a wide range of top brands in both categories and can help guide you based on your home’s needs (we understand Toronto’s climate and construction trends). Both laminate and vinyl flooring can be excellent choices - it’s about finding which aligns with your practical needs and style preferences.
Need more help? Feel free to reach out to us or visit our Toronto showroom. Our flooring experts can answer your questions and show you options side by side. Whether you opt for the comfort of laminate or the resilience of vinyl, you’ll be getting a floor that is beautiful, affordable, and capable of withstanding everyday life. With the information above, you’re well on your way to making an informed decision on the perfect flooring for your home. Enjoy your new floors!